To breed bearded dragons, you must create their natural seasons to bring the females into heat. This is called pre-condition. Before starting pre-condition, you should make sure that both your male, and female bearded dragons are well, healthy, and mature enough to be bred.

Pre-conditioning Steps

Bearded Dragons are extremely hardy lizards, when they are provided
with the proper temperatures and lighting in their environment.
However, they are also pets who do their best to hide their
symptoms from us when they become ill, as do most other reptiles.
This is no doubt an instinctual behavior, since a sick Beardie, in
the wild, would probably not live for very long.

Since your Beardie can’t groan or complain about where it hurts,
you must use your observation skills to determine when something is
not right. There are times when a healthy Beardie will act
differently, but these changes should be seen for what they are by
the experienced veterinarian.

When properly fed and with appropriate UV light, the bearded dragon is a robust and healthy creature, typically living 8-12 years, occasionally even 15. However, like many reptiles, they will try to hide illness or injury. The first danger to deal with is substrate. Impaction is an issue where some indigestible substance is trapped in the intestines and prevents proper flow through the digestive system. The best substrate is a matter of some controversy, but all will agree that the following are bad. Corncob can cause impaction and grow fungus and bacteria. Walnut shell is sharp and also can cause impaction. Calcisand and Vita-Sand taste good to bearded dragons, especially those needing more calcium, but cannot be digested and leads to impaction. Repti Bark, wood shavings and Original Lizard Litter can lead to impaction. There are brands that claim to be biodegradable and safe to consume, but these should be viewed with suspicion. Bearded Dragons have very short intestinal tracts, and thus have a great deal of trouble metabolizing their food. Solid surfaces are often best, and easiest to clean. Do not use heated rocks to keep the enclosure warm, as dragons have trouble detecting heat under their bodies, leading to burns.

Bearded dragons are native to Australia, and like the vastness that Australia has to offer, there is also a large number of different species, and variations of bearded dragons over the large continent.

All species of bearded dragons are popular because of their quiet nature, ease of handling, and their small size to name just a few. Unlike many reptiles, bearded dragons require a much smaller space to live comfortably in, and are easily handled by adults, and children. There are eight different species of bearded dragons noted in Australia, and the following 6 are the most commonly known as pets.

Beardies require a temperature gradient in their enclosures because they can’t regulate their body temperatures like. They have to thermo regulate, which means that they have to move between areas of differing temperatures in order to regulate their internal temperature. To produce heat and a basking spot in your enclosure, you can use either a ceramic heat emitter, a reptile basking light (red, blue or white) or just a plain old household light bulb.

Bearded Dragons Substrates

The substrate (sometimes called flooring) is the material used to line your dragon’s housing. In their native environment, Beardies live in sandy desert areas. Playground sand is often used because it is relatively dust free and easy to maintain, although there have been reports of intestinal impaction. Substrates can also include wheat bran (pest free and rated for human consumption), outdoor carpeting, non-stick padded shelf liner, and paper towels. Other good substrates are newspaper, pea rock or aquarium gravel.

Bearded Dragons need a large enough habitat to allow for a variety of distances from the heat source. A glass aquarium is recommended for security, ease of maintenance, and pet viewing. To avoid the expense of multiple habitats as your pet grows to adulthood, consider using a partition that can be easily adjusted. This way, throughout the life of the pet, you can use a single large aquarium, 55-70 gallons.

The white melamine is a material that keeps the cage very bright which is important for stimulating a dragon’s appetite. The light (and the UVB) stays inside the cage rather than escaping through the glass sides of an aquarium. Glass fronts will allow the dragon to check out their world and interact with you.

Lizards from Pogona genus are commonly named as Bearded Dragon. They have broad triangular heads and flattened bodies. They reach a manageable average size of about 18-22 inches (46-56 cms). The average weight is about 10-18 ounces (283-510 gm)

The species of Bearded Dragons get their name from a distinctive series of lateral spines (specialized scales) radiating horizontally from the head and base of the tail. As juveniles, they are semi-arboreal. As adults, they are mostly terrestrial, but climb to bask and search for prey.

Feeding Bearded Dragons

The type of food you feed your dragon can vary depending on its age. At the earlier stages of life a dragon will need more protein and fewer greens, but it is advisable to introduce greens as early as you can. If you shun these, your pet may not take to them later as it matures. Bearded Dragons are omnivorous - they eat bugs and vegetation.

Your dragon will feed only if both the food you give it and its body temperature are right and will not show any appetite if the conditions are wrong and even if it would show an appetite and feeds, it cannot digest the food if the temperature is wrong.

The bearded dragon is undoubtedly one of the most interesting pets one can own. Even if you don’t like lizards, the bearded dragon’s playful disposition and unique characteristics might just win you over. If you are already a proud owner of a bearded dragon (or “beardie” for short), or are thinking about purchasing one, then please read on for some crucial info on how to care for these unique lizards.